Virva Launo

What is it like to design for Marimekko?
Bags carry everyday life...and the life of a Marimekko customer I hope is full of unpretension, color and joy! Lots of times fashion is seen as a superficial world. But that we humans wear clothing and carry bags separates us from all the other creatures on this planet, so it must be a necessary aspect that goes to the core of our being. It's very fullfilling to design for a company that stands for a choice of such strong ideas, bold heritage and a world of color.

How did you become a designer?
My education reflects my belief in design as a real profession beyond just having good ideas. You have to have something to say in the first place, of course, but you also have to know how to convey the idea. The MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins is a culmination of my education. Prior to that, BA in fashion degree from studies at Polimoda (Florence), FIT (NY) and Parsons (NY), Esmod (Paris).

Why bag design?
The three dimensionality, sculptural aspects and mathematical precision of bags... Rather than being confined by parameters of the human body, or the climate, like in clothing, bag design and construction is limited solely by gravity while having unrestricted rules in regard to form/fit.

What inspires you?
Cities. Contrasts. Things taking unexpected turns. Juxtaposition. I'm always observing. I can't turn it off. By living in six countries, including several metropolises, one learns to decipher the different societal components that ultimately also influence fashion. Fashion is a fun way of decoding culture and analyzing behaviour.

How would you describe your style?
I've been told it's a strong point of view that has an innocent quality about it and it's never romantic. Strong sense of color and proportion, so I've been also told. In a few words: Uncomplicated, never simple.

What is your design process like?
I have a motto: “When in doubt, don't.” I collect a lot of information constantly and the ideas just come, unforced. It could also be a word that I read that triggers it. You have to feel strongly about it, that your excitement is genuine. Otherwise it doesn't work. When the idea matures I see it very precisely as a real object or product. The rest is a painstaking process to create it in reality. Very little changes at that point. Often makers are happy to work with me because by that stage I already know exactly what I want. Later on in the process there is a very technical aspect to all my designs that is ultimately not the focus of the design. I am obsessed by make and the details.

What kind of materials do you prefer to work with?
I don't discriminate materials. It can be hard, soft, manmade, natural. It's about the right combination at the right time, but also about utilizing its qualities to the maximum.

What is the best thing about your work?
Combination of obscure unexpected references in order to try to create something original and new.

Which designers do you like?
Hussein Chalayan. Furniture that turns into luggage was quite brilliant bag design. I appreciate his approach to fashion which was quite new at the time and how he draws his inspiration from a variety of sources outside of fashion. Then, of course classics as Rudi Gernreich. Some of Finland’s greats like Tapio Wirkkala. I really enjoy sculpture, Antony Gormley being one. I'm often drawn to New York artists such as Frank Stella.

Generally speaking, what is the most important quality that a fashion designer should have?
Curiosity. To be able to clearly visualize things that don't yet exist.